Food for Scallywags? | The Scran & Scallie, 1 Comely Bank Road, Stockbridge, Edinburgh EH4 1DT
The Scran & Scallie has one of those menus that drives you mad with indecision. We’d been peeking at it before our visit, fuelling Ade’s dreams about crispy pigs ears and pork scratchings. This gastropub is Tom Kitchin‘s latest venture overseen by head chef David Umpherson. It’s just outside the centre of Edinburgh in Stockbridge, a villagey area with a real foodie feel. A little farmers market pops up on a Sunday, offering everything from pheasants with their feathers still intact to Japanese street food.
A warm and friendly welcome awaited and continued throughout our meal, nothing was too much trouble. We sat and admired the decor – a mash-up of Scandinavian influences and tartan, muted earthy tones and cosy tweed. Nibbling (well, very noisily crunching) on crispy pig skin and sipping on a glass of sweet and hoppy Fyne Ales Hurricane Jack £2.50 we took one last look at that menu. The other Michelin star chef who created the menu here with Tom is Dominic Jack, who we hear loves his fish. With this fact in mind I decided to start with Classic mussels £6 – something I wouldn’t normally go for, they were good but not enough liquor had soaked through the flesh of the fish, and they were a tad on the rubbery side. Ade also opted for fish with Curried crayfish £7 – super fresh and flavoursome crayfish in a crisp lettuce bowl. The ingredients were of such incredible quality that even the flavour of the humble spring onions jumped off the plate.
Although we were dining here as paying customers, co-owner and director Philippe decided to treat us to another couple of starters. I made a mental note to call The Dogs as soon as I left the restaurant to put back out sitting a wee while, we were dining there just a few hours later. I was however excited at eating fresh ravioli that doesn’t contain cheese, ravioli is not something I could usually order in a restaurant for this very reason. Newhaven crab and coriander ravioli £7 – so delicate in a light broth with kale and carrots, beautiful. Ade was given a Chicken liver parfait, toast and pickled cabbage £7.50. The parfait was rich and smooth topped with a delicious calvados and apple jelly and the pot of acidic pickles burst with Christmas flavours. Once these were polished off we were offered a welcome breather was offered before our mains, phew!
My Scran & Scallie steak pie £15.50 would have offered a delightful surprise with a bone marrow poking out the centre for chip dipping. Unfortunately I had unwittingly seen several pictures of this creation before our visit. This has to be the best pie I have ever eaten, underneath the lid with its golden sheen I unearthed a plentiful amount of steak in a punchy bold sauce, and mushrooms too. Alongside a half of pint of Isle of Skye Black Cuillin cask beer £2.50 this was a match made in heaven. A fine beer, which tasted more like a mocha, this is food matching done well.
Ade chose Mallard en croute £16 from the specials menu – the most neatly packed en croute I ever saw. The duck was wrapped in smoked bacon with cabbage and carrots, all crammed inside immaculate puff pastry. Sides of French beans and shallots and Roasted carrots and honey £3.50 deserve a special mention too. Shame we couldn’t squeeze in a few Mini roasted chorizo potatoes £3.50. Whilst checking out the toilets I discovered one of the best things I’ve seen in a restaurant in a long time – a little kids area. Behind a screen was a television, bean bags, books and toys, brilliant! The amount of times we’ve been out with the kids or a big family celebration and had wished for just this. Please take note restaurateurs down south!
We finished off with a Vanilla panna cotta with orange, thyme and rhubarb £5.50 to share. Wow, who on earth knew that orange and thyme would work so well together, the sweet syrup at the bottom of the bowl was incredible, the panna cotta was one of the best we’ve ever had and we’ve had a few! Top scran, seriously good, and very reasonable prices for such high quality cooking, ingredients and service. If we ever end up in Edinburgh again, we’ll be heading straight back.
1 Comely Bank Road, Stockbridge,
Edinburgh EH4 1DT
Telephone: 0131 332 6281
Opening hours: Mon-Sun 10am-late
Nearest station: Haymarket or Edinburgh